In Cape Town, a food editor recalled 50 years in journalism and the city’s culinary history
In Cape Town, South Africa, the food editor of Daily Maverick, in an article dated September 11, 2026, recalled 50 years of work in journalism. According to him, at the age of 21, without a school-leaving certificate, he came to the offices of The Cape Times looking for a job. As Daily Maverick writes, maritime editor George Young offered him the task of keeping the daily shipping log after his assistant, Captain CJ Harris, retired.
The author worked in the maritime department for four years, during which Young taught him the basics of newspaper work. He later obtained his school-leaving certificate through evening courses, gained experience in the newsroom and the sub-editors’ desk, and subsequently moved into broader journalistic work. In 1992, he became editor of Top of the Times at The Cape Times.
From liners to restaurant reviews
According to the author’s recollections, his interest in food began in childhood during family trips around South Africa and voyages on Union Castle mail liners between Cape Town and Durban. He recalls the silver service on board, soups, fish, chicken and a cheese trolley, as well as dishes he tasted in hotels.
More current news is available on the UA.News Telegram channel Telegram.
In the late 1970s, the journalist began occasionally writing restaurant reviews. In the 1980s, he continued this work as a staff member of The Argus arts department. Among the Cape Town establishments he mentioned were Hildebrand, Mount Nelson Grill Room, The Doll House, Wooden Shoe, Buzbey and Buccaneer.
Changes in Cape Town cuisine
In the author’s view, Cape Town’s culinary scene began changing in the 1990s: alongside steakhouses, hotel restaurants, Italian and Chinese establishments, new cuisines were emerging. After trips to London, he wrote about Thai cuisine, which was then beginning to gain worldwide popularity.
In Cape Town, Chaiporn Lekcharoensuk opened the first Wang Thai in the Foreshore area, while Larry Chang opened Sukhothai on Hope Street. The author also mentioned chefs Frank Swainston, Frank Dangereux, Peter Tempelhoff, Luke Dale Roberts and Scot Kirton. According to his recollections, Dangereux opened La Colombe in 1996, and the restaurant later became the starting point of the La Colombe Group.
