Chemical treatment of textiles affects their environmental footprint — Cyprus Mail
In Cyprus, Cyprus Mail published an article about a research review whose authors challenge the simplified notion that clothing made from natural fibres is always more environmentally friendly than synthetic clothing. Researchers at the University of Manchester note that textiles’ environmental impact depends not only on the origin of the fibre, but also on processing during the production, use and disposal stages.
Cotton requires land and significant amounts of water, while in many regions its cultivation is associated with the use of pesticides and fertilisers. Polyester is made from fossil resources, whereas wool production raises questions about livestock emissions and land use. Before reaching stores, fabrics may also be bleached, dyed, softened, strengthened or given water-repellent properties.
Fibres and chemicals in the environment
Chemicals used in growing raw materials, producing fibres, dyeing, finishing and giving materials specific properties can affect textile decomposition, the substances it releases into the environment, and its recycling potential. Therefore, two products made from the same fibre can have different environmental footprints depending on how they were processed.
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Discussions of textile pollution mainly focus on synthetic microplastics. At the same time, natural fibres, including cotton and wool, as well as regenerated cellulose fibres — viscose and lyocell, which are produced from wood pulp — have been detected in rivers, oceans, and particles of rain and clouds. This does not mean that natural materials are necessarily more harmful than synthetic ones, but it indicates that the origin of a fibre alone does not explain pollution.
Chemical composition complicates recycling
Mixtures of fibres, dyes and chemical finishes complicate the sorting, recycling and recovery of textiles for making new quality products. Recycled cotton fibre may retain dyes, finishes or agents used to impart certain properties, affecting whether it can be safely reused or recycled. Information about such products’ chemical history is often incomplete or unavailable.
The article notes that policymakers are introducing digital product passports, which are intended to contain data on materials, repairability and a product’s environmental characteristics throughout its life cycle. At the same time, requirements specifically designed for textiles are still being developed. Consumers are advised to buy fewer, higher-quality clothes, use them for longer, repair and reuse items, and pay attention to brand transparency and Oeko-Tex or bluesign certifications.
