In Madagascar, a traveler set out in search of rare wild pepper — TimesLIVE
In northern Madagascar, a traveler made a motorcycle journey to the east coast in search of the rare wild pepper voatsiperifery. The search began after his Paris neurologist asked him to bring back this spice, which is difficult to cultivate and harvest. TimesLIVE reports on the journey.
Wild voatsiperifery pepper
Voatsiperifery grows in the wild as a vine that requires support from tall trees. Its Malagasy name consists of the words “voa” — fruit — and “tsiperifery,” which is connected with the plant’s traditional use for healing wounds. According to supporters of the spice, it has a complex aroma and can be used not only in main dishes but also in fruit salads and chocolate cakes.
The island’s east coast is considered to have the best conditions for this plant, combining suitable soil, high humidity and tall trees. The pepper is harvested by hand at heights of up to 20 meters, making the work dangerous. In Europe, a kilogram of voatsiperifery can cost up to 200 euros.
175 kilometers on difficult roads
The traveler set off by motorcycle on a 175-kilometer route from west to east in the northern part of the island. This unpaved road becomes impassable after rain, while in the dry season it is generally considered suitable only for off-road vehicles. The route featured dried muddy ground, slate stones, deep dust and potholes.
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During the trip, he nearly fell from a narrow bridge when a thorn from a bush caught his jacket sleeve and pulled the front wheel to the side. During the first four hours on the road, the traveler encountered only one vehicle — a truck used as a taxi. He also stopped because of herds of zebu with long, sharp horns.
A meeting in a mountain village
After several nights in Vohémar, the traveler went to visit a teacher who lived about 30 kilometers away in the hills. Four members of a local family joined the trip. The road along the river was covered in red mud and water-filled ruts; the motorcycle carrying two female passengers overturned twice, but the falls were soft.
In the village, the principal of a primary school with two classrooms showed him pepper growing on different trees. He called it Rambo pepper, but according to the traveler, it was not voatsiperifery. Eventually, at a local market, the traveler bought ordinary wild pepper and red peppercorns to bring to the doctor.
