Milan Fashion Week unveiled spring-summer 2027 collections — The National
At Milan Fashion Week in Italy, designers presented spring-summer 2027 collections: Prada dedicated its show exclusively to skirts, Gucci showed Demna’s first complete vision for the fashion house, and Glenn Martens held his final show as Diesel’s creative director. The National reports on the event’s main shows.
Prada opened the season with a collection consisting only of skirts — with no dresses, trousers or shorts. At the Fondazione Prada runway, models were shown in suiting fabric, neon, pleated nylon, silk and cotton treated to resemble leather. They were paired with bralettes, fluffy sweaters, technical windbreakers, biker jackets and shirts.
Gucci’s show, titled The Store, took place at a Milan conference centre transformed into a large brand store. Demna combined equestrian motifs, Milanese bourgeois style, 1990s glamour and rebellious youth culture in the collection. Looks included riding jackets, trench coats, evening dresses, bombers, rugby shirts, tartan kilts and jeans with multiple belts and chains.
Archives and new silhouettes
Dolce & Gabbana turned to images of Sicily in the Stravaganza Siciliana collection. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana used antique lace, silk blouses with bows, knitted skirts with large flowers, as well as jeans with orange beads, gemstone fastenings and large brooches.
In her third collection for Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter explored the transition between winter and summer clothing. Leather pieces were combined with lace, fringe, crochet and lighter silhouettes. Kendall Jenner also walked in the show, while actor Jacob Elordi was among the guests.
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Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo debuted at Moschino, inviting more than 400 friends, photographers, editors and industry representatives to the runway alongside models. Their collection combined layering, architectural volumes, checked prints and everyday pieces with irony.
Intimacy and evening style
Maria Grazia Chiuri developed the theme of clothing as a second skin in the Fendi collection. The show combined lingerie motifs, silk, animal prints, velvet, lace, embroidery and intarsia. Alberta Ferretti presented lightweight dresses, kimono jackets, layered looks and balloon trousers in shades of blue, rust, mustard, lilac and powder pink.
For Roberto Cavalli, Fausto Puglisi turned to the brand’s archive, using animal prints, devoré velvet and embroidery. The collection included miniskirts, cycling shorts, halter tops, short shorts and low-rise jeans. Max Mara, in turn, made linen the central material: the Far Horizon collection featured safari jackets, waistcoats, utility-style shirts and cropped cargo trousers.
Glenn Martens concluded his work at Diesel with a show featuring recycled denim, trompe-l’oeil effects, leather looks and aged knitwear. Dancers from the French collective (La)Horde took part in the show. Martens remains the creative director of Maison Margiela.